Hotel in Mortagne-au-Perche

The making of…

By the end of my 45-day road trip across France, I arrived in Normandy during the 80th anniversary of the D-Day landings. I was then joined by my partner, whose great-uncle lies buried there, having sacrificed his life just days after arriving on the beaches. It was a pilgrimage of sorts, a reckoning after years of reading and imagining this extraordinary human feat. We watched vintage bombers from the forties fly overhead while standing on the sand of Sword Beach, and exhausted ourselves navigating blocked roads, traffic jams, and old car parades.

After a couple of intense days, we retreated inland into the gentle hills of Perche, and there, almost by chance, I stumbled upon Mortagne-au-Perche. We took refuge in the Hôtel du Tribunal for a few hours. I set up outside to draw it, stone by stone.

Sitting there, sketching quietly, I felt my energy return, replenished by the rhythm of the architecture. The Hôtel du Tribunal, with its layers of history visible in every corner, became a quiet pause in our travels.

Quick Facts:

The Hôtel du Tribunal sits in the historic center of Mortagne-au-Perche, in the rolling hills of the Perche region of Normandy.
The buildings date from the 16th and 18th centuries, originally constructed as private townhouses (hôtels particuliers) for prominent local families.
Its name — “Tribunal” — recalls the period when part of the complex housed local judicial functions after the French Revolution, when many former aristocratic or religious properties were repurposed for civic use.
The architecture reflects a transition in styles:
- 16th century elements show late Gothic influence — steep roofs, tall chimneys, thick stone walls, and asymmetrical layouts typical of medieval urban homes.
- 18th century additions introduce more classical balance — larger windows, refined proportions, and a quieter elegance aligned with Enlightenment-era tastes.
Mortagne itself was once a stronghold of the Counts of Perche in the Middle Ages, strategically placed between Normandy and the Loire Valley.

The town’s architectural surroundings include:

The Église Notre-Dame de Mortagne-au-Perche, a 16th-century Flamboyant Gothic church.
The Crypte Saint-André, dating to the 13th century.
The Couvent Saint-François, a 16th-century convent with cloister and chapel.
The medieval Porte Saint-Denis, a surviving 12th–13th century town gate.

The hotel isn’t a single grand structure, but a cluster of old townhouses stitched together over centuries. In the 16th century, homes like these were built for magistrates, merchants, and minor nobles — people who held influence in small but important provincial towns. They were designed not only for living, but for receiving clients, managing estates, conducting business. Thick stone walls provided insulation and protection; steep slate roofs shed Normandy rain; inner courtyards allowed for light, privacy, and a quiet separation from the street.

By the 18th century, as France moved into a more ordered, classical aesthetic, façades became more symmetrical and refined. Windows widened. Interiors softened. The homes reflected stability and administrative life rather than medieval defensiveness. After the Revolution, many such residences across France were repurposed — becoming civic buildings, courts, or administrative offices. The name “Tribunal” hints at that later life.